Irresistible Italy: Cristian Maitan, Best Sommelier of Italy 2023

In Conversation with Cristian Maitan, the esteemed Head Sommelier at Ristorante Nuovo Ranch

In the interview below, Cristian Maitan talks about his journey as a Sommelier and shares some valuable tips for wine enthusiasts and what exciting trends we should look out for in Italian wines. Proclaimed Best Sommelier in Veneto 2018 and Best Sommelier Conegliano – Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore 2018 by AIS or the Italian Sommelier Association, five years later, in November of this year, he was crowned Best Sommelier of Italy 2023 in Genova, Italy.

We first met Cristian, through a friend Michele Peruzzetto, visionary winemaker of Ca’ Peruzzetto in Ponte de Piave. During that encounter at their family restaurant, Nuovo Ranch, a very humble Cristian entertained us with such candor, class, and warmth. He also shared interesting stories about his family roots dating back to the pre-war era. We ended our conversations with a tasting of their Carruba, a carubbe and grappa liqueur, that his father crafted meticulously by hand, a testament to their artisanal heritage.

Did you grow up in the F&B environment? When did your family start with Nuovo Ranch?
Yes, I grew up in the family restaurant Nuovo Ranch in Ponte di Piave, Treviso. The restaurant was founded in 1945.

How did your journey as a Sommelier start? Who inspired you?
My training path in AIS began in 2017. Two figures inspired me, one is my high school teacher, Simone Bonato, and the other is my mentor, Graziano Simonella, a long-time Head of National Services Group at AIS and a revered personality in the hospitality industry.

After winning the Best Sommelier of Veneto and Best Sommelier Conegliano – Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore in 2018, how did that affect your life and career? 
My life has definitely changed. New events, tastings, and a renewed motivation.

Only over a year after your wins, the pandemic happened, how did it affect you in general?
The pandemic for me has been a time for reflection and personal development.

You’re simply great at blind tasting, can you share some simple tricks that you use?
Just passion, dedication, and curiosity, these are the secrets.

Best Sommelier in Italy. That is such a historic milestone in your life. How was it different from 2018? What was the most difficult round for you?
This has brought greater awareness, maturity, and experience. The biggest difficulty was with myself.

Would you tell us why?
The difficulty was with myself. Many times I was about to give up, but I always got back up. The course of study requires many sacrifices and effort.

What is next for you? Does Best Sommelier of Europe enter your mind?
My goal today is to enjoy the prize. Then I’ll see.

Do you have a go-to bottle of wine?
It really depends on the mood.

In terms of Italian wine trends, what region or grape varieties should we look out for in 2024?
In Italy we have a unique heritage of autochthonous grapes, in my opinion, these will give us the greatest satisfaction. (Italian autochthonous grape examples: Arneis, Nosiola, Fiano, Ribolla Gialla, Sagrantino, Pigato, Refosco, Durella, et cetera.)

Best Sommelier also means best role model for the next set of aspiring Sommeliers. What advice would you give?
Three pieces of advice: Never give up, always believe, and stay curious!

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In bocca al lupo, Cristian! Thank you for granting us this interview amidst your busy schedule. Let us raise our glasses and toast not just your win but also your warmth, passion, and humility. May you inspire more people to embark on their own journey as a sommelier or enthusiast in this beautiful world of wine.

Follow Cristian on Instagram: @cristianmaitan_sommelier

Ristorante Nuovo Ranch
Via IV Novembre, 63 31047 San Nicolò di Ponte di Piave
Contact: +39 0422 747050; info@ristorantenuovoranch.it

Photo credits: Cristian Maitan

Irresistible Italy: Klinger Winery

At the recently held Mercato dei Vini 2023 in Bologna, we met brothers Umberto and Enzo Pilati of Klinger Winery. Organized by FIVI, a federation of independent winemakers, the 12th edition of Mercato dei Vini held in Bologna Fiere from November 25-27, gathered 985 independent winemakers and 26,000 wine operators and enthusiasts in three days.

Umberto and Enzo represented Klinger Winery which their Great-grandfather Luigi Pilati started more than 100 years ago in Maso Clinga; within the heart of the Trentino-Alto Adige wine region, near the high hills of Pressano. The Pilati family, steeped in tradition and passion for winemaking, created their first commercial vintage in 2018 which they called “Klinger”.

Umberto serves as the Enologist while Enzo is the Agronomist of the winery. Their sister Lorena and their father Felice Pilati are also actively involved in the family enterprise. Klinger Pilati Winery cultivates various grape varieties, including Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Schiava, and Nosiola, the quintessential indigenous white grape variety of Trentino. “We cultivate 4 hectares of the Nosiola grape, accounting for about 7% of the total cultivation of this variety in the region.”, Pilati remarked.

Umberto’s enthusiasm for the wines that they showcased at the event was palpable as he guided us through the wine tasting, sharing valuable winemaking techniques and he shared some family anecdotes about the winery. As we started our wine flight, we could vividly visualize the picturesque backdrop of the Dolomite Mountains, each sip unfurling tales of meticulous craftsmanship and reverence for the territory.

Our journey began with effervescent anticipation—an exquisite sparkling wine, Masnen Vignal. A blend of 85% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Grigio, aged for 40 months on lees, revealed the essence of 50-year-old vines. The result: a pale lemon elixir, the Trento Extra Brut Riserva Millesimato, resonating with the terroir near the Dolomites—a testament to Klinger’s dedication to production excellence.

The Pizpor, an ode to heritage and aspiration, is embodied in the Dolomite di Bianco 2019—a blend of 85% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Blanc. These are at least 50-year-old vines grown in vineyards situated 400 meters above sea level. This Cuvee is pale lemon in the glass with floral notes of jasmine and fruity notes of tropical fruits. Fresh, with pronounced flavor intensity with a long finish. Umberto shared an anecdote recalling his Grandfather’s words, “I would like to drink a Borgogna (Burgundy).”, referring to a bottle of their own which they now called Pizpor—a blend inspired by grapes originating from Burgundy, France.

Transitioning gracefully to the indigenous Nosiola, a white grape variety flourishing in Trentino’s embrace and one of the most important bottles of the Klinger winery, with four hectares of vines spanning from 70 to 100 years. It’s pale yellow in the glass, medium intensity on the nose offering hints of lychee, grapefruit, and honey. Dry with a phenolic grip on the palate, it mirrors the fruity notes giving it fantastic balance and a long finish. This bottle has a great potential to age for another 5 years or so. Umberto shared that, at the Pilati family home, they often pair it with Trota or San Marino fish cooked in brine.

The Gewürztraminer, another jewel in their portfolio, boasts pronounced intensity on both nose and palate. An exquisite wine with low to medium acidity, a medium-full body, and a long finish. “This variety holds a significant importance for us and our Grandfather’s legacy, as our Gewürztraminer vineyards sit right in front of our house.” Pilati shared. It encapsulates the essence of family legacy, with vineyards rooted in their ancestral home—a great homage to their forebears indeed.

Our wine flight culminated with Vernatsch, crafted from the Schiava grape variety, showcasing vines weathered by time, ranging from 40 to 70 years. Fermented in tonneaux, vertically lined up to ensure a meticulous punching down method every two weeks before being transferred to oak barrels for another two years. Another testament to the labor of love that the Klinger winery instills in their winemaking tradition.

In the course of swirling glasses, tasting notes, and spirited conversations, Klinger Winery not only tantalized our palates but also unraveled a great story woven with familial heritage, love for terroir, and an unwavering commitment to crafting wines that embody the spirit of Trentino-Alto Adige.

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Klinger Winery
Via Clinga 26 38015 Pressano, Trentino
Contact: +39 3341539034; info@klingerpilati.it

Photo credits: Umberto Pilati, Klinger

Irresistible Italy: Best Wine Stars 2023 – The Masterclasses

The Best Wine Stars 2023, as we highlighted in a piece we published earlier, held a significant meaning for us. Throughout the event, we had the privilege of networking with some of the finest wine producers from various regions across Italy. Exploring their rich histories, understanding their unique winemaking styles, and hearing about the challenges they overcame during the pandemic was truly enlightening. Discovering that they not only survived these challenges but also persevered in continuing their passion for crafting exceptional wines left us inspired and grateful.

The walk-around tasting provided us with the opportunity to meet numerous wonderful producers and winemakers. However, it was the Masterclasses that were held concurrently at the event that truly stood out for us. The topics covered and the featured winemakers brought forth captivating stories and invaluable tips, delving into aspects such as terroir, geography, history, and winemaking styles. Whether you were a winemaker, importer, distributor, or enoteca owner (referred to as a liquor shop in the States), the sessions were both informative and eye-opening.

We were able to attend only a few of the Masterclasses and these are the ones that left a lasting impression on us: “Discovery of Primitivo… and more” with Adua Villa and Stefania Vinciguerra, showcasing Azienda Varvaglione; “Bitter is Better” with Fabio Bacchi featuring Cardamaro, Formidabile, Rossi d’Angera, Sarandrea, Sibilla, Sirene, Tonico Pugliese; “Vini on Tour” featuring Cantina Nepos Villae, Cantina La Lignite, Azienda Agricola Laghetto del Frassino di Zenato Carlo; and “Between Myth and the Present” with Adua Villa and Alessandra Piubello featuring Consorzio Terre di Reggio Calabria.

The Masterclasses not only deepened our understanding but also fostered a profound appreciation for the diverse narratives and craftsmanship behind each wine or spirit. Below, you’ll find a reference list of topics, presenters, and featured producers from this year’s event. These Masterclasses are free to attend for all exhibitors and ticketed participants, offering a valuable opportunity for exploration and enrichment.

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1. “Discovery of Primitivo… and more”
Presenters: Adua Villa; Stefania Vinciguerra
Featuring: Varvaglione

2. “Valdobbiadene DOCG, the vertical you don’t expect”
Presenters: Adua Villa; Stefania Vinciguerra
Featuring: Col Vetoraz Spumant

3. “Bitter is Better”
Presenter: Fabio Bacchi
Featured producers: Cardamaro, Formidabile, Rossi d’Angera, Sarandrea, Sibilla, Sirene, Tonico Pugliese

4. “Sensibili alla Sostenibilità”
Presenters: Adua Villa; Francesco Quarna
Featured producers: Borgoverde Soc Agricola SS, Bulichella, Marisa Cuomo, Monviert

5. “Vini on Tour”
Presenters: Adua Villa; Francesco Quarna
Featured producers: Nepos Villae Winery, La Lignite Winery, Azienda Agricola Laghetto del Frassino di Zenato Carlo

6. “Between myth and present”
Presenters: Adua Villa; Alessandra Piubello
Featuring: Consorzio Terre di Reggio Calabria

7. “Le Langhe”
Presenters: Adua Villa; Alessandra Piubello
Featuring: L’Astemia Pentita

8. “Good drinking etiquette”
Presenters: Adua Villa; Valentina Vercelli
Featuring: Fiorotto 1934

9. “Viaggio i terroir del Veneto”
Presenters: Adua Villa; Valentina Vercelli
Featuring: Terre del Dogado

10. “L’espressione dello Chardonnay proveniente dallo stesso territorio interpretato attraverso diversi processi di vinificazione”
Presenters: Adua Villa; Valentina Vercelli
Featuring: Champagne Jarry Héritage

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As we eagerly await Best Wine Stars 2024, we look forward to discovering the exciting lineup of topics, presenters, and companies that will undoubtedly captivate our curiosity and palate once again. We are thrilled to attend the event again and delve into equally intriguing topics during the Masterclasses. We highly encourage importers, distributors, and everyone in the wine trade to consider joining the event next year for a remarkable experience and invaluable networking opportunities.

Photo credits: Carlo Eletto for Prodes Italia

The One Where We Lost Chandler

Matthew Perry, Actor, Friend, August 19, 1969 – October 28, 2023

Photo credit: Wallpaper flare

Irresistible Italy: Highlights from ViWine Festival 2023 – Part II

Here is the next set of wines we loved at this year’s ViWine Festival.

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Tenuta Natalina Grandi

Recioto di Gambellara 2017

Made from 100% Garganega, the region’s native grape. The Natalina Grandi vineyards are in Monte di Mezzo in Gambellara. The vines are situated on top of the Berici Hills with land composed of clay and limestone. This sparkling sweet wine has notes of ripe concentrated fruits that are fresh on the palate and with a long finish. This Recioto has 12% Abv. The refermentation of this wine is on steel tanks with yeast.

Tenuta Natalina Grandi
Via Battaglione 8 Gambellara 36053 Vicenza
Contact: +39 0444 444102

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Cantina Zoe 

The vineyards of Cantina Zoe are hidden in the surrounding Asiago plateau area of the Province of Vicenza. Near the famous historic town of Bassano del Grappa, they have 4 hectares to grow not just grapes but also olive trees and vegetables. 

Refosco IGT 2021 is a grape variety indigenous to the Veneto region—Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso grapes. The wine stays 6 months in the barrel plus 2-3 months in the bottle before it goes out to the market. It has good complexity on the nose and on the palate. Medium tannins are there but they are quite soft. 13.5% Abv.

Ottobre21 2017 is quite a special bottle—because of the importance of the name and also the flavors. Its name is from the birth date of the winemaker’s grandfather. This bottle is fresh, with good tannins, and a medium finish, Made from 80% Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso. Harvested manually in the months of September and October, this vintage has 14% Abv. 

Zoe Cantina e Vigne
Viale Asiago 165 Bassano del Grappa 36061, Vicenza 
Contact: 3285705058; info@cantinazoe.com
http://www.cantinazoe.com

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Tenuta Solar

Le Caselle Soave Classico Foscarino DOC

Made from 100% Garganega, the estate is by the foot of the Soave Classico at Monteforte d’Alpone in Verona. They have 3 hectares of land dedicated only to this bottle. The vineyards have an altitude of 200-250 meters. It’s medium gold and the nose of this wine is mirrored on the palate: tropical fruits, pineapple, apricot, peach, and pear. 13.5% Abv. Macerated for 48-60hrs before it goes to acciaio (steel tanks). Stays for 8-10 months in steel and another 3 months in the bottle.

This wine is best paired with fish dishes, aged cheeses, and fresh seafood.

Cantina Tenuta Solar Azienda Vitivinicola
Via Dante Alighieri, 125 37032 Monteforte d’Alpone, Verona
Contact: +39 335 8483477; info@tenutasolar.com
http://www.tenutasolar.com

Irresistible Italy: Ponte Rotto Vini di Campania

Azienda Agricola Ponte Rotto is named after the bridge found in the Campania Region. The historic bridge dates back to the Roman times. Separated by the Calore River, the Ponte Rotto connects the Campania and the Puglia regions.

Di Pietro siblings Antonio, Maria Luisa, and Gaetano decided to continue and take on the passion for viticulture which they got from their grandparents, Antonio and Antonietta. They are the third generation to embrace, toil, and take charge of the territory. This time, they turned their direction and focus on wine.

In 2019, Azienda Agricola Ponte Rotto was born out of a keen passion for wine and winemaking—and love for Irpinia—their homeland. Antonio is an Engineer, while Maria Luisa and Gaetano are both accountants by profession. According to Gaetano di Pietro, “We may have chosen our own professional fields as adults, but we were already introduced to the world of viticulture by our grandparents at a very young age.”

The success of the brand was achieved not only because they have devoted time and effort, but also ideas and strategies for the territory and for the potential market. Di Pietro added, “With the guidance of our parents, Pasquale and Antonietta, we were able to produce and launch the winery’s inaugural bottles in 2019.” Ponte Rotto started with three rockstar bottles: “Perzeché” Falanghina, “Narciso” Greco di Tufo, and lastly “Helea” Aglianico. In 2023, they premiered “Lisetta”, an elegant Sparkling Brut Irpinia Greco DOC.

Perzeche Irpinia Falanghina DOC

A straw-yellow beauty made from 100% Falanghina grapes from vineyards at Mirabella Eclano dedicated to this bottle. It’s 13% Alcohol, vinified using cold maceration with a soft pressing process, and then fermented at a controlled temperature. It has floral notes and tropical fruits and on the tongue, it’s dry, fresh, with good acidity and distinct minerality. It pairs well with white meat and seafood dishes.

Narciso Greco di Tufo DOCG 

Grown in high altitude vineyards of Campania in the clayey-calcareous soils of Santa Paolina, Avellino, this bottle is elegantly fresh with notes of fresh fruits and herb extracts. It is pale straw-yellow in the glass and has some serious vigor yet pleasant in the mouth showing good structure and minerality. It’s easy to drink and also easy to pair with light appetizers and/or fish and seafood soups or dishes. 

Helea Campania Aglianico IGT

This Ponte Rotto pride is 100% Aglianico grape grown in a 4-hectare vineyard in Montemarano. Deep ruby in the glass, with red fruits and subtle spice notes, 14% Alc, full-bodied yet soft on the mouth. Aging takes place in steel tanks for 6 months and another 6 months in the bottle. Goes best with roasted or cured meats and gamey dishes. 

Lisetta Sparkling Brut Irpinia Greco DOC

Named after their maternal grandmother, the winery’s newest baby is made from 100% Greco grapes grown in Santa Lucia di Santa Paolina. Elegant, brilliant straw-yellow in glass, floral, and citrusy on the nose, it’s dry with good minerality in the mouth. It is best to have with plates of seafood, fruity cakes, and muffins, or just on its own. Open for special dinners and important celebrations.

After only a few years since they started, Azienda Ponte Rotto takes pride in producing about 38,000 bottles a year on average. Maria Luisa, Antonio, and Gaetano remain as passionate through and through in their winemaking and they are equally enthusiastic in getting their brand and wines out to the market—with refined and discerning taste.

Azienda Agricola Ponte Rotto
Via Piave 29 Avellino 83100
Contact: +39 3288931077; info@ponterotto.it

Photo credits: Ponterotto Vini

Irresistible Italy: Renato Ratti

The Consorzio di Tutela Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani prepared a private welcome dinner and tasting for 61 sommeliers, wine importers and distributors, wine instructors, and restaurateurs, and one of the bottles that were featured was the Barolo Marcenasco DOCG 2004 by Cantina Ratti.

Paving A Trailblazing Tradition

The young Renato Ratti returned to La Morra in Cuneo, Piedmont, in 1965, after his wine studies and exploration in Italy and France. That year, he procured his first vineyard in the Marcenasco area. He had no winemaking family tradition before him, so he probed his style and put on everything he learned, and made his own tradition instead.

When Ratti’s first vintage Barolo Marcenasco was born, it became an instant hit as he applied the concept of Cru that he learned from his extensive exploration and research. He was valued not just in Piedmont but all over Italy to be the pioneer of modern Barolo. All eras must come to an end, they say, and that happened when founder Renato Ratti passed away in 2008.

Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco DOCG 2019

We tried the vintage 2019 at the actual event and, as expected, it did not disappoint at all. Aging occurs in Slavonian oak barrels for 2 years and in the bottle for another 12 months. It has a very profound complexity. Its floral, fruity, and spicy notes are so elegantly blended and on the mouth, it’s full, round, and has aggressively balanced tannins. Pairs well with steaks, Tagliolini in ragu sauce, and medium-aged cheeses.

A New Beginning

In the same year that the winery lost its patriarch, Pietro Ratti, the son of the great Renato Ratti, joined on board the company fresh from his Enology studies at Alba, the same school that his late father attended, and later on became a patron because of his success. The tradition was passed on to Pietro and he’s been running the company since—applying his knowledge and fresh ideas while conserving his father’s pioneering trail.

At present, the winery produces an average of 400,000 bottles each year. It is also good to note that Ratti is the first ever to use Albeisa bottles. These are Langhe’s iconic bottles created by Renato Ratti, originally produced in Alba, a commune in Piedmont that is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site for its magnificent cultural vineyard landscapes.

Ever since he joined, Pietro Ratti has made his mark administering his ways while leading the winery’s expansion and development together with 11 people in the winery and another 32 dedicated team who works with him in the vineyards—collectively working with the same passion and respect for past and new, trends and traditions.

Renato Ratti
Frazione Annunziata, 7 12064 La Morra, Cuneo, Italy
Contact: +39.0173.50185; info@ratti.com

Photo credits: Cantina Ratti

The Pandemic Formed This Barkada In New York City

What does “Barkada” mean? It means your group of friends, your gang, peers, or homies. For these individuals and small businesses, it means family–kapatid (sibling), kapamilya (family member) here in New York City. It started with friends, Deirdre Levy and Lugao Kasberg, who were delivering PPE’s, through Mask Our Heroes, a non-profit organization dedicated to help and protect those in the front lines at the height of the coronavirus pandemic.

While the risk is high of contracting the virus, these guys braved the streets of New York and even discussed feeding the homeless while doing the deliveries. Together with Joey Golja and through AJ Lavilla’s push that they should all collaborate, the three musketeers, Deirdre, Lugao, and Joey started “Project Barkada.”

While the pandemic has become more and more disastrous, the barkada on the other hand grew in number. They’ve grown even stronger with the community’s participation and overflowing support.

According to Deirdre Levy, “It originally started just helping those in need and doing so by working with Filipino businesses who were trying to keep afloat.” Through collaboration and ‘Bayanihan‘, the barkada became one big familia amidst the pandemic and it continues to multiply with proverbial Pinoy speed.

“And that’s how we collaborated with Augee of Kabisera Café too. She was doing her deliveries and there were times when we delivered together. Kabisera was a center in most things and how so many people blew up.” Levy added.

Here are some of the amazing Barkadas and personalities to note, so please continue to support them in any way you can. Start by following them and get updates on events and other happenings.

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The Project Barkada continues to grow (expanding in other states, too)–getting more creative, doing more help to the community (often in their own wonderful, generous way), and helping each other–like a family. The love, support, and respect for each other will always be there but the heart for those who most needed help will always be its foundation.

It is such a joy and inspiration to see events by our Barkadas that has an element of activism, volunteerism, social impact, or charitable cause incorporated into it. Let’s wish and pray for these guys to keep doing well by doing good.