At the recently held Mercato dei Vini 2023 in Bologna, we met brothers Umberto and Enzo Pilati of Klinger Winery. Organized by FIVI, a federation of independent winemakers, the 12th edition of Mercato dei Vini held in Bologna Fiere from November 25-27, gathered 985 independent winemakers and 26,000 wine operators and enthusiasts in three days.
Umberto and Enzo represented Klinger Winery which their Great-grandfather Luigi Pilati started more than 100 years ago in Maso Clinga; within the heart of the Trentino-Alto Adige wine region, near the high hills of Pressano. The Pilati family, steeped in tradition and passion for winemaking, created their first commercial vintage in 2018 which they called “Klinger”.
Umberto serves as the Enologist while Enzo is the Agronomist of the winery. Their sister Lorena and their father Felice Pilati are also actively involved in the family enterprise. Klinger Pilati Winery cultivates various grape varieties, including Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Schiava, and Nosiola, the quintessential indigenous white grape variety of Trentino. “We cultivate 4 hectares of the Nosiola grape, accounting for about 7% of the total cultivation of this variety in the region.”, Pilati remarked.
Umberto’s enthusiasm for the wines that they showcased at the event was palpable as he guided us through the wine tasting, sharing valuable winemaking techniques and he shared some family anecdotes about the winery. As we started our wine flight, we could vividly visualize the picturesque backdrop of the Dolomite Mountains, each sip unfurling tales of meticulous craftsmanship and reverence for the territory.
Our journey began with effervescent anticipation—an exquisite sparkling wine, Masnen Vignal. A blend of 85% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Grigio, aged for 40 months on lees, revealed the essence of 50-year-old vines. The result: a pale lemon elixir, the Trento Extra Brut Riserva Millesimato, resonating with the terroir near the Dolomites—a testament to Klinger’s dedication to production excellence.
The Pizpor, an ode to heritage and aspiration, is embodied in the Dolomite di Bianco 2019—a blend of 85% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Blanc. These are at least 50-year-old vines grown in vineyards situated 400 meters above sea level. This Cuvee is pale lemon in the glass with floral notes of jasmine and fruity notes of tropical fruits. Fresh, with pronounced flavor intensity with a long finish. Umberto shared an anecdote recalling his Grandfather’s words, “I would like to drink a Borgogna (Burgundy).”, referring to a bottle of their own which they now called Pizpor—a blend inspired by grapes originating from Burgundy, France.
Transitioning gracefully to the indigenous Nosiola, a white grape variety flourishing in Trentino’s embrace and one of the most important bottles of the Klinger winery, with four hectares of vines spanning from 70 to 100 years. It’s pale yellow in the glass, medium intensity on the nose offering hints of lychee, grapefruit, and honey. Dry with a phenolic grip on the palate, it mirrors the fruity notes giving it fantastic balance and a long finish. This bottle has a great potential to age for another 5 years or so. Umberto shared that, at the Pilati family home, they often pair it with Trota or San Marino fish cooked in brine.
The Gewürztraminer, another jewel in their portfolio, boasts pronounced intensity on both nose and palate. An exquisite wine with low to medium acidity, a medium-full body, and a long finish. “This variety holds a significant importance for us and our Grandfather’s legacy, as our Gewürztraminer vineyards sit right in front of our house.” Pilati shared. It encapsulates the essence of family legacy, with vineyards rooted in their ancestral home—a great homage to their forebears indeed.
Our wine flight culminated with Vernatsch, crafted from the Schiava grape variety, showcasing vines weathered by time, ranging from 40 to 70 years. Fermented in tonneaux, vertically lined up to ensure a meticulous punching down method every two weeks before being transferred to oak barrels for another two years. Another testament to the labor of love that the Klinger winery instills in their winemaking tradition.
In the course of swirling glasses, tasting notes, and spirited conversations, Klinger Winery not only tantalized our palates but also unraveled a great story woven with familial heritage, love for terroir, and an unwavering commitment to crafting wines that embody the spirit of Trentino-Alto Adige.
Klinger Winery
Via Clinga 26 38015 Pressano, Trentino
Contact: +39 3341539034; info@klingerpilati.it
Photo credits: Umberto Pilati, Klinger
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